What colour to paint Trigger? (LR S2A radio 109" 1962'ish))

I have now got to the point with my Series 2a project that the bulkhead is ready for a top coat of paint. The intention was to carry out all the necessary priming coats and finish (for now) with two coats of P'docks Bronze Green. I would then apply the more original military green later but only on the external surfaces. My thinking was that was how it would have been originally done?

Now I having a change of thought and I am not so sure that Bronze Green is what was originally applied especially when I look at some of the dash panels that would have been out of most of the weather and UV degradation. Or at least the shade that P'docks supply.

If you take a look at some of the images on the link you should get a better idea of the original colour allowing for age?

http://pjboomer.blogspot.com/2009/06/arrivalfeb-09.html

So:-

a) What colour to use as a top-coat - NATO semi gloss green?

b) Would the whole vehicle have been painted that colour from the factory or std 'std' LR 'green' then a military finish after delivery?

All suggestions gratefully recieved :-\

Paul

I used a B plate 1964 2A on the farm for many years and the 'civi' LR Bronze Green had faded to a very similar colour to the LR shown in your pics. The chassis no's you quote seem a bit odd as they only consist of seven digits, I would have expected eight and I think the suffix letter would be a.

Cheers for that Degsy.

The chassis number is an 8 digit but I delete the last one and replaced with an * . Paranoid I know? :cool2:

The 'bronze green' supplied by P'docks could also be a bad representation of LR green as well. It does seem a trifle too much yellow if you know what I mean. Just not dark enough.

Off to the sortout and classic car jumble/bash at Swindon next weekend and the Paintman may be about so I wanted to get an idea of what to buy while I am there. It would save the postal charge later after all?

Just taken a put up a few pics of the old and new b/h for a colour comparison.

http://pjboomer.blogspot.com/

Cheers,

Paul

Let's just say I don't want to comment on Paddock but I think a paint specialist would be your best bet.

Yep. I will see the Paintman on Sunday week so I'll see what he has. LR Green gloss.

I think the bulkhead may need a bit of fittlin' once it comes to refit due to the number of paint layers it has been subjected to :yay:

Rust bullet automotive (2 coats)

International red oxide primer on stone chipable areas

Grey primer (2 coats)

P'docks LR green (2 coats)

...and now 1-2 more

...then fill all the cavities with Dinitrol cavity wax. So it better last a few more years!

Cheers,

Paul

Yep. I will see the Paintman on Sunday week so I'll see what he has. LR Green gloss.

 

I think the bulkhead may need a bit of fittlin' once it comes to refit due to the number of paint layers it has been subjected to :yay:

 

Rust bullet automotive (2 coats)

International red oxide primer on stone chipable areas

Grey primer (2 coats)

P'docks LR green (2 coats)

...and now 1-2 more

 

...then fill all the cavities with Dinitrol cavity wax. So it better last a few more years!

 

 

 

Cheers,

Paul

Should stop a few of the built in draughts :whistle:

....and seam sealer on all bulkhead and footwell seam (my welding isn't that good :-D

The military ID plate gives WV4628. This contract was placed in 1966/7 for 750 LWB GS Land Rovers, yet this one appears to be FFR - don't worry, as this may be an error in the work of John Maestrangelo's lists that I am using as a resource? The original Army number would have been 45ER31.

The ends of the bulkhead tend to get painted less often than other parts. Is there sign of a small black sticker on the passenger side quoting BS standards for seatbelts? If so then my guess is that the vehicles is as per the military data plate.

The chassis numbers are also different as you stated between the military data plate and the civilian chassis plate. Check the front drivers-side dumb iron for the chassis number. The good news is that the chassis number on the military plate suggests a 1964 109 LWB so I guess they noted the chassis number wrong! The chassis number on the chassis plate however is for a 1966 Land Rover 109 and this matches the dates for the Military number plate.

If I had to date this vehicle I would have to place bets on it being 1966. Early to mid '66 at that! The original factory finish would almost certainly have been Deep Bronze Green. This does not mean it was a darker green though, actually more golden-yellow in bright light. Paddocks may be close after all?

Be aware that if the Landy is post 1965 it will need seatbelts.

Cheers for the reply Ferret.

The PO fitted inertia belts (he had it for 6-7 years) and it had lap belts when he bought it from the former PO who bought it when it was de-comm'd. I haven't chopped up the remenants of the old b/h yet so I will look for a black sticker as above. I'm sure I remember something along those lines though.

Your dating info sounds on the nail and I have never found out what info was used by the DVLA to state it's year of manufacture as '62 :???

Both front dumb irons have been chopped off and repaired in the past so I don't hold out much hope of finding any number there.

Just had a look at the bulkhead and seat box on the passenger side - no sign of any BS stickers.

Hi, I have 62 Mk8 FFR. The paint code is BS224-381C, which is deep bronze green. All rover were delivered to MOD in this finish at that time.

If you want the original in service "Camouflage" green colour, it would of been Olive Drab (BS Colour chart 381 298 Olive Drab).

www.smithandallan.com do some excellent paint called Protega Containerguard, which can be brushed or sprayed, i brush painted my Humber pig with it, and it came out a treat, has a nice satin finish, and is very hard wearing.

5 litres was £35.00 and £15.00 for 5 litres of thinners, enough to paint your landrover, all its bits and bobs, jerrycans, tin helmets and your driveway a number of times!!

NATO green wasnt in use until 1974 i believe. (See clives painting article in clives corner).

Cheers for that gents. I have dropped a mail to Smith & Allen to confirm prices for a pre-mixed colour to BS381-224. That looks like the closest match to the base colour under everything else applied over the years :cool2:

Marlin,

I have a 67 2a ffr and hummed and arghed over whether to finish in satin or gloss DBG and decided on satin in the end although i now wish it was gloss although as a previous post noted there is a wide variation of that colour,i think this is what made me go for satin which has weathered well and i beleive does not seem to collect as much road muck.

Message back from Smith & Allen. They can provide Containerguard mixed to any specific BS colour for no extra charge at £38.50 + £6 P&P

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HIGH-SOLIDS-SINGLE-PACK-1-COAT-FINISH-ENAMEL-PAINT-5-lt_W0QQitemZ250440872212QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_DIY_Material_Paint_Varnish_MJ?hash=item3a4f707114&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262

Finish is described as a 'Sheen Finish' so I am assuming it is a 'semi-gloss/satin'?

http://www.smithandallan.com/colour_chart_BS381C.html

Marlin, go have a look at my restoration blog, "Humber Pig getting it ready for the season", it shows the paint job i done on it, before and after and the paint sheen, it should give a pretty good indication on what to expect!

Make sure you get the thinners "Protega Thinners 1006" its £16 and doesnt add to the postage cost, you will need it to thin the paint when it gets a little bit thick as it dries fast, and to wash your brushes out.

The paints been on it for about 5 months now, and it looks just as good as when i put it on, it is very hard wearing and seems to shrug the muck off, and some of the places that were bare steel when it was painted on directly show no signs of rust at all, which isnt bad as it lives outside.

Link:- http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?t=12839